Mastering Salad

Of all the things I could be writing about, and I'm going to write about salad? Well, yes, because it's been my go-to meal lately and not out of self-deprivation but because it's refreshing and (fairly) easy. And I've just been craving simple and green and cool lately. However, I'm not a big fan of "crunchy" salads if you know what I mean - chunks of raw vegetables like bell pepper or carrot, and dry, shattering croutons. And I don't love dressings, whether they're astringent balsamic ones or creamy, dull ones from Hidden Valley (which seem to be the ones most commonly on offer). I like soft, balanced salads - squares of ripe avocado, tender lettuces, chewy, garlicy homemade croutons, etc.

Anyway, I was inspired by a chicken caesar salad recipe I saw in my new favorite cookbook, but (of course) I couldn't make it as instructed; I had to tweak it. First, baby shrimp instead of chicken. Why? Well, because I'm a "vegetarian" and yes, even though I know farmed shrimp is just as bad as CAFO chicken, there is the benefit of it being, well, cheaper. Only a buck-fifty for 6 oz, cooked and frozen. Hey, I'm poor and shrimp sounded good. My greens were organic, ok? My mantra is "progress, not perfection."

There's also the matter of the dressing. The particular recipe I was looking at called for ingredients to make a fine and tasty looking caesar dressing. Did I particularly want to go out and buy "egg product" (to replace the raw egg in a traditional dressing)? Did I want to purchase a tube of anchovy paste? No and no. So, of course I fell back on "my" dressing, which is to say, a fairly standard vinaigrette. But what I love about my version is that I'm pretty easy on the acid (red wine vinegar, lemon juice, what have you) and I only ever make enough for a serving at a time. I really hate those recipes that call for 1/4 cup of olive oil. Don't they know that I'm poor? So, I'm only using about a tablespoon or so. Also, after I toss the salad with the dressing I dust the whole thing with parmesan (or my new favorite - grana padano), which makes this magical thing happen...every leaf has a sheen of vinaigrette and a light coating of cheese, which sort of melds in the mouth into this creamy, salty goodness that still lets the taste of the lettuces come through. I know I'm not the first to appreciate this sensation, but I'm glad to have discovered it.

When I make salad I always start by making the dressing in the bottom of a LARGE bowl, so that I have enough room to toss the thing without pieces going all over the kitchen counter. Then I wash my greens (I've been using half romaine and half spring mix, but you better believe I'll be using spinach and arugula when the farmer's markets get rolling) and put them in the bowl on top of the dressing. I make the croutons, then warm the shrimp in the same pan, and then everything goes in the bowl. I toss to coat, then sprinkle on the parm and toss again before unceremoniously dumping it all out onto my plate.

The thing that's great about salad is that it's basically a formula. This is pretty much the only salad I ever make at home...it's just that I top it with different proteins, and occassionally toss in whatever vegetables are hanging around. E.g. carrots shaved into ribbons, shredded red cabbage, peas, beans or chickpeas, hard boiled egg, chicken, blue or goat cheese if I'm lucky, cherry tomatoes, sunflower seeds or nuts, tuna or salmon, dried cranberries, whatever....

Shrimp Caesar Salad

2 - 2 1/2 c. lettuces
1/4 c. baby shrimp, defrosted and deveined
1/2 avocado, cubed
1 c. bread cubes ( I like to cube bread from "country" loaves, though sandwich bread works in a pinch)
a couple of Tbls olive oil
a clove of garlic, peeled and brutally smashed with the butt of a knife
parmesan cheese, maybe 2 Tbls.
mustard (I like dijon or stoneground)
red wine vinegar or lemon juice, 1-2 tsp
salt and pepper
some more olive oil (this is to taste, I'd guess about a little over a Tbls)

Squirt a 1/2-1 tsp of mustard into your bowl. Don't you dare measure it, just squirt. Pour in some vinegar or squeeze in your lemon (or use a little of both!). Add a nice pinch of pepper and a couple of pinches of salt. Whisk. Pour in some olive oil while whisking. When it looks creamy, stick your finger in and taste. Too vinegar-y? Add a little more oil. Kind of flat? Add another little pinch of salt. Done. Wash and dry your lettuces (salad spinners make the whole thing much less aggravating) and dump them in on top of the dressing. Don't mix it yet! Set a skillet over med-high heat and pour in enough oil to cover the bottom and add your smashed garlic clove. When the garlic starts sizzling, flip it over. Let it get golden. Then add your bread cubes. Walk away for 30 seconds. Don't toss them yet, you want them to get golden. Toss, and season with salt and pepper. Add a touch more oil if the pan is dry. Walk away again for at least a minute, maybe two. This is when they get crunchy. Turn them out of the pan onto a plate to cool while you finish with the shrimp. Dry your shrimp and throw them in the still-warm, still-oiled, still-garliky crouton pan. Toss them around for a minute to get warm, season, maybe squeeze a little lemon over them. Dump them on top of your greens. Toss the salad together. Add your croutons, toss again. Sprinkle your parm over the top and toss one more time. Eat from the bowl if you feel like it, otherwise plate it up and enjoy.